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Food & drink | 3rd March 2023

PoB Hotels Chef Series: Umami flavours predicted to be popular this year

Originally from Japanese culture, Umami is one of the five basic tastes

Originally from Japanese culture, Umami is one of the five basic tastes along with sweet, sour, salty and bitter taste sensations.

Umami is often described as ‘savoury’, characteristic of broths and cooked meats with complex flavours. According to some of the wonderfully talented chefs across the PoB Hotels collection, Umami is set to become increasingly popular this year, with the growing use of delicious flavours such as Yuzu, Dashi and Ponzu.

Douglas Balish, Executive Chef at Grove of Narberth

My favourite umami flavour: Dashi and Ponzu

Why do I love it? My favourite umami flavours come from Asian cuisine. I find them particularly useful across the menu for meat and fish, but by far the best use for Dashi and Ponzu is in enhancing the vegetables that are grown in the hotel’s kitchen garden.

How do I use it? I often use Dashi stock to cook vegetables like potatoes or turnips to really bring out a unique flavour, boosting the ingredient whilst adding a salty smokiness to it. I use Ponzu to make dressings and pickles, before vacuum packing the vegetables and cooking them inside the liquor to keep the flavour in the bag.

About Douglas: Born in Scotland, Douglas began his career in Ayrshire before gaining his experience in some of the top restaurants in the UK including Bohemia and Whatley Manor, as well as the world-renowned Quay restaurant in Sydney. He joined The Tudor Room in 2014 and was first awarded a Michelin Star in 2016, which he held until he left. Douglas joined Grove of Narberth in May 2019. His style of cooking is all about intelligently showcasing ingredients and natural flavour. He works closely with the hotel’s head gardener to carefully plan planting timelines, ensuring that they have the best vegetable specification to fit his vision for each dish. A real passion to keep food miles low and showcase local produce is tangible throughout his menu at Fernery. Douglas now lives a rural lifestyle in Pembrokeshire with his growing family, you’ll often see him out and about foraging the spectacular coastline, with the clan in tow!

Will Holland, Executive Chef at The Atlantic Hotel

My favourite umami flavour: Anchovy

Why do I love it? For me, anchovy is one of the ultimate umami flavours that can enhance and elevate many dishes. It adds that salty, briny, saline flavour of the sea that ignites the fifth sense for a really moreish and delicious taste. When anchovies are combined in a dish, the strong flavour melts away and you’re left with the perfect natural seasoning.

How do I use it? I often use anchovies when I slow cook a shoulder of lamb with garlic and rosemary or I love adding anchovies to salsa verde to create that umami richness to the fresh herbs, garlic and lemon.

About Will: Predicted to be one of the 10 most influential chefs of the next decade by The Good Food Guide, Will Holland has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants since the age of 18 and was awarded his own Michelin star before he was 30 years old. Taking a relaxed approach, the focus of his food is on celebrating exemplary British ingredients, using excellent technique resulting in outstanding dishes. Will joined The Atlantic Hotel as Executive Chef in October 2017, starting a new chapter for dining at the hotel. Will is passionate about the use of local, seasonal ingredients believing that amazing dishes are the result of amazing produce. Inspired by the rich and varied ingredients found on Jersey and in its waters, his menus are a celebration of the land and sea.

Graham Squire, Head Chef at The Goring

My favourite umami flavour: Buddha Hand, Yuzu and Trapper Spice

Why do I love it? I’m particularly fond of the Trapper Spice which I make by hand by blending dried chilli, maple sugar, Madagascan rock salt and herbs. Although the process takes several weeks, the outcome never fails to delight which I always find incredibly rewarding.

How do I use it? Buddha Hand and Yuzu are used to finish the Orkney scallop and artichoke dishes, whilst the Trapper Spice is used to flavour the thinly sliced pancetta which is served alongside both dishes.

About Graham: Graham became part of The Goring’s Michelin-starred Dining Room in August 2019, with a solid background in creating the highest quality dishes from seasonal produce, sourced from farmers, makers and growers around the British Isles. Graham’s career path and experience is impressive, starting at Claridge’s before being appointed Head Chef at London’s Michelin starred neighbourhood restaurant, Trinity. Prior to establishing himself at The Goring, Graham was Head Chef at The Lickford Inn in West Sussex.

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